Over the past few years, numerous urban centers have undergone significant transformations, but Almaty, Kazakhstan's largest city, stands out as a prime example of successful reinvention. With a population of 2.2 million and still growing, Almaty has shed its Soviet-era image and emerged as Central Asia's urban jewel. The city has not only developed one of the world's most visually stunning metro systems but has also become a flourishing hub for banking and finance. It has elegantly blended its traditional bazaars with upscale boutiques and contemporary shopping centers, and its culinary scene has evolved from traditional to a modern gastronomy that is garnering international acclaim. Almaty is also positioning itself as the cultural and artistic epicenter of Central Asia, boasting several world-class museums and a state-of-the-art cultural center set to open in the near future. Dennis Keen, an American resident and advocate for historic preservation, who founded Walking Almaty, describes Almaty as "incredibly livable," noting its green spaces, cleanliness, excellent public transit, and status as the nucleus of contemporary art and dining in the region. Despite the cultural stereotypes perpetuated by films like "Borat," Almaty's current state is likely to elicit a very different reaction from the film's titular character, one of admiration and surprise.
Although the region has a history dating back millennia, with nomadic populations traversing the vast plains between China and Europe, a significant urban settlement along the Silk Road vanished by the time the Russian Empire annexed the area in the mid-19th century. A fort established by the Russian Empire to solidify its control evolved into a small city with a grid layout and an abundance of greenery. The Russians also built the Ascension Cathedral, an architectural landmark that still stands today. However, few other relics from the tsarist period remain in the modern city. After gaining independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, the national capital was relocated to Astana, a move that served as a catalyst for Almaty's rebirth. Rather than lament the loss of its status, the city's leaders and residents united to reimagine Almaty, striving to demonstrate its superiority over the new capital. Jama Nurkalieva, director of the forthcoming Tselinny Center of Contemporary Culture, remarks that the shift in capital has liberated Almaty, fostering a unique spirit of creativity, possibilities, and debate, which has contributed to the city's thriving artistic scene and robust economy.
Almaty's culinary landscape has also experienced a renaissance, with chefs pioneering a new genre of cuisine known as neo-nomad cuisine. This fusion of modern culinary techniques and traditional ingredients used by the nomadic communities surrounding Almaty is redefining the city's gastronomic identity. Sat Nurmash, general manager of the upscale Auyl Restaurant, explains that they draw inspiration from traditional nomadic methods such as smoking or cooking over an open flame, but the similarities end there. The meats served as main courses are marinated with unique herbs and spices and slow-cooked over low heat for two days, resulting in small, artfully presented portions. Auyl's seven-course tasting menu features a variety of dishes, including dungan noodles with spicy duck, horse meat samosas, beshbarmak with smoked brisket and lamb shank, cold chalop (sour horse milk) soup, and lamb tongues with pomegranate. Other establishments offering neo-nomad cuisine include Tör Restaurant in the Glass Cube on Esentai Square and Tarih Restaurant near Dynamo Stadium. Auyl has also been recognized for its yurt-inspired design, being a finalist in the Prix Versailles World's Most Beautiful Restaurants competition.
While the city embraces modernity, it also maintains a connection with its past. The Zeleny Bazaar, established in 1868, is a colossal market filled with stalls offering a variety of fresh produce, kurt (sour cheese balls), shubat (camel's milk), and other local specialties. There is even a section dedicated to various types of horse meat, including surprisingly palatable sausages. For those seeking an immersive nomadic experience, Kolsai Lakes National Park, located in the snow-capped Tien Shan Mountains east of Almaty, offers yurt accommodations and horseback treks guided by nomads to remote Kaindy Lake and its haunting ghost forest.
The city's art scene is as diverse as it is intriguing. The Abilkhan Kasteev State Art Museum, with its Louvre-like glass pyramid, is the nation's primary exhibitor of Kazakh creations, showcasing paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts such as carpets, jewelry, and woodwork. Other notable collections can be found at the Ihlas Museum of Folk Musical Instruments, housed in a 1908 Russian-style wooden mansion, and the ethnographic artifacts at the Almaty Museum. The city's most enigmatic collection is a "secret museum" without a formal name, located underground in the basement of the French House, a luxury shopping arcade on Furmanov Avenue. The private collection's owner, rumored to be a local oligarch, is fiercely proud of his city and has amassed an impressive array of items, from ancient torture devices and medieval chastity belts to nomadic fashion and early radios. Access to this collection is highly exclusive, with reservations mandatory and contact details closely guarded.
The Tselinny Center of Contemporary Culture, funded by local entrepreneur Kairat Boranbayev, is set to become a premier institution in Central Asia, offering a wide range of contemporary music, dance, film, fine art, and theater, as well as research projects, education, and publishing. The center is housed in a restored Soviet-era Tselinny Cinema, a glass-fronted, postmodern structure from 1964. Boranbayev envisions the center as a space for intellectual engagement with artists, theorists, and intellectuals from various disciplines and cultural backgrounds.
Almaty's public spaces are also rich with art, with the Almaty Metro known for its elaborately decorated stations, such as Zhibek Zholy with its Wonders of the Ancient World mosaic, the colorful stained-glass apple tree at Almaly, and the traditional Kazakh wedding scene at Auezov. Dennis Keen has dedicated much of the past decade to uncovering and preserving Soviet-era public art that has been neglected since independence. His walking tours highlight masterpieces of Socialist Modernist architecture, such as the Arasan bathhouse, spa, and wellness center, Hotel Otrar reliefs and murals, and the Academy of Science mosaics and stained glass.
For travelers, Turkish Airlines offers nonstop flights between Almaty and Istanbul, with connections to multiple European, African, and Middle Eastern cities. Air Astana provides domestic service to numerous cities across Kazakhstan, as well as daily flights to Beijing, Seoul, New Delhi, and Bangkok. The Ritz-Carlton Almaty, located on the upper floors of a 30-story skyscraper at the Esentai Mall, offers modern luxury and stunning city views. The Renion Park Hotel, within walking distance of Ascension Cathedral, the Green Market, and Arasan Baths, provides mid-range comforts at affordable prices. For a trip back in time, the centrally-located Hotel Otrar offers vintage architecture and a dining room adorned with murals. Auyl restaurant, known for its cutting-edge neo-nomad cuisine, is also a feast for the eyes with its design-savvy interior. Traditional Kazakhstani cuisine can be enjoyed at the seven branches of Lanzhou, a noodle house, and the upscale Sandyq Restaurant beside the Novotel City Center. Almaty also offers a variety of cuisines from the former Soviet empire, such as Georgian kachapuri at Darejani restaurant or Russian delicacies like borscht and beef cheeks at Mar'ina Roshcha, both located near the southwest corner of the Ascension Cathedral park.
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